Watchmakers get creative with diamonds

Posted by Rik Verkaart on

No longer simply about the sparkle, leading maisons are finding innovative new ways to showcase diamonds.

At Dimexon, we have noticed a wave of innovation within diamond watch design. Watchmakers are developing new setting styles that present diamonds in a fresh way for the luxury watch market, elevating the gemstones.

We are the preferred partner to some of the world’s most exclusive watch and jewellery maisons, some of which exhibited at the recent Swiss watch show Watches and Wonders. At the show, our team observed that diamonds were increasingly being presented in innovative ways.

Rather than simply adding some extra sparkle to bezels and hour markers, diamonds were set en tremblent, meaning that each stone is set individually in a way that allows it to tremble. Diamonds are also being added to watches in unexpected ways, such as within the architecture of the movement.   

“At Watches and Wonders, and other watchmaking showcases throughout Geneva that week, diamonds were a key talking point, with many brands incorporating the stones in innovative, fresh ways,” says Dimexon director Vishal Mehta.

“At Bulgari, for example, the luxury Italian jeweller unveiled a new style of gold tubogas that allows it to set diamonds into the bracelets of its iconic Serpenti watches for the first time. Cartier showed new editions of its Ballon Bleu that has en tremblent melee diamonds covering the dial, while Chanel worked diamonds into the skeletonised movements of some of its new watches, including the Première Camélia X-Ray.” 

Geneva is becoming an important hub for the global watch and jewellery trade. While the Swiss city has long had a reputation as the centre of watchmaking, the Watches and Wonders show, and the wider Geneva Watch Week, is making it a key meeting point for professionals. The city is set to be visited by the industry once again this week, as gemstone trade show GemGenève opens its doors at Geneva’s Palexpo (May 11-14).

“Geneva really is now the centre of activity for European jewellery and watch trade shows for brands, and we welcome this shift,” says Vishal. “Some of the Dimexon team will be visiting GemGenève this week and we look forward to meeting with clients and colleagues, as well as attending some of the presentations on ethics and responsibility. As a member of the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, we believe that positive change can only be achieved by the industry working together, so we look forward to participating in these discussions.”


Image credits: Watches and Wonders

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